Luxor
Egypt


The Experience

From a gin and tonic on the Nile Terrace to afternoon tea in the lounge, this is the perfect destination for travelers who want their Egyptian experience to have a quintessentially English quality. In fact, no one should check into the 1886-era Old Winter Palace without a swimsuit, some smart clothing and a copy of Death on the Nile. After a dip in the pool, set among beautiful gardens, you need to dress up to enter the Royal Bar, where you can sit and read in surroundings that don't seem to have changed since Agatha Christie was a guest. Don't even think of staying at the adjoining New Winter Palace. Nothing can beat the original.

The Rooms

Rooms are furnished, not surprisingly, in a pleasant, Anglophile style. What may be surprising is some of the garish floral prints and dated furniture, though you'll likely end up feeling that it just adds to the character of the property. Views of the gardens are lovely, but why bother when you can upgrade to a room with a balcony overlooking the Nile. One big caveat: Beware of the rooms located beside the elevators, as the sound rumbles through the walls.

The Service

The service, like the decor, is classic: deferential, prompt, subtle and friendly. The staff in their crimson vests are always happy to help, and there's even a gleaming brass shoeshine chair in the lobby where you pay only what you feel is appropriate. While tips are clearly much appreciated, guests never feel like they are being squeezed for one.

The Highlights

Despite the old-fashioned feeling in some areas, it's easy to feel regal here: The staircases and corridors are wonderfully wide, having originally been built to accommodate the largest of Victorian dresses. Traipse down them to the restaurant; in comparison with the royal feeling elsewhere in the hotel, the pastel color scheme here can feel somewhat underwhelming, but it hardly matters when you can head to the bar for a nightcap. With its scarlet walls and curved bar, the Royal Bar is quite simply one of the world's great hotel bars.

-- Stephen Whitlock

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