Williamsburg
Virginia


The Experience

The white neoclassic facade of this inn isn't nearly as old as it looks, erected in 1937 at the behest of John D. Rockefeller. Still, it displays enough traits to remain true to Rockefeller's dream of making history come alive. Thoroughly renovated in 2001, the inn spans 200 years of American decorative arts, with 19th-century Regency as the single strongest influence -- a mélange of sturdy armchairs and mahogany tables, plush carpets and crystal chandeliers. A new Terrace tearoom and Restoration Bar on the first floor were part of the millennium makeover, giving the inn a much more jolly mien than previous eras -- at least now you can guzzle a cold beer.

The Rooms

Essentially, you have two choices: the older building or the Providence Wing. For anyone who likes a trace of history, there's only one option. Rooms in the older building may have Regency-like furniture rather than the real McCoy, but the canopied beds and matching curtains and sconces are actually attractive. Bonus: Many of the rooms were expanded in the renovation, with the average size now a copious 500 square feet. Rooms in the Providence Wing are slightly smaller on average (400 square feet) and described as "contemporary with Oriental accents," but it's difficult to detect the latter. "Generic hotel" is a much better description, and the rooms could really do with their own spruce-up. The only plus: All have a balcony or terrace overlooking the nearby pond and woods.

The Service

It's all over the place, especially during the summer months when the place is packed and the staff seemingly stretched too thin. At moments it feels like you're staying at the Ritz and others when it seems like Motel 6.

The Highlights

Living history is, of course, right outside your door, with hundreds of Early American buildings, exhibits, museums and performances of Colonial Williamsburg. Hotel guest tickets to the park include unlimited admission to all regular daytime and "Colonial Explorer" activities, plus 50 percent off all evening performances. If you're not interested in history, there are plenty of other distractions, including a fitness center with spa, outdoor pool, clay tennis courts, hiking and biking trails through the nearby woods and the twin Robert Trent Jones Sr. and Rees Jones courses. Our founding fathers never had it so good.

-- Joe Yogerst

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