Chetek
Wisconsin


The Experience

Canoe Bay is nothing short of a find in Wisconsin's north woods. That is, both literally a find -- there are no roadside signs announcing the retreat, which guards its privacy like treasure -- and figuratively, as a stand-alone sophisticate. In a region better known for rustic fishing camps, Canoe Bay is a refined camper, with 14 different buildings housing a total of 20 guest units. Most units are cottages designed in Wisconsin native Frank Lloyd Wright's Prairie style on 280 acres shared by three private lakes. For maximum bonding with your mate and the natural surroundings, the resort bans children, pets, smoking and hard liquor (BYO or rely on the award-winning wine list), and cell phone service is blessedly spotty at this tranquil getaway.

The Rooms

Guest rooms throughout the property fulfill Wright's organic principles, with cedar walls and large windows taking in Lake Wahdoon and the surrounding hardwood forest. More private are the spacious cottage suites featuring open-floor plans, grand stone fireplaces. Some even have emperor beds, six square feet larger than king size. Most have generous decks with lake views. Design cognoscenti check in to the Rattenbury, a hilltop cottage designed by Wright protégé John Rattenbury and distinguished by cathedral ceilings, a cantilevered deck and a Wright-designed throw rug in front of the massive fireplace. Peak of the pack is the Rattenbury-designed Edgewood, more home than cottage, with 2,000 square feet of living space wrapped by French doors that open onto a 1,500-square-feet deck.

The Service

The staff bend over backward without showing any effort -- in fact, hardly showing themselves at all. Waiters deliver complimentary room service to breakfast nooks each morning with efficiency. Chef Scott Johnson has been known to take interested guests along on his food-foraging hikes for that night's dinner.

The Highlights

The nightly four-course, $65 prix fixe dinner, the only meal served in the dining room, is a highlight. Dishes like morel mushroom tart and roast salmon in an orange-rosemary butter sauce, served in a candle-lit, wood-finished room, add to the overall elegance of the property. Guests break from contemplating the harmony of nature and design with included activities like canoeing, swimming and hiking in summer, and snowshoeing in winter. Pine scented forests spread aromatherapy both indoors and out along the tranquil lakeshore.

-- Elaine Glusac

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