Baden-Baden
Germany


The Experience

Since the 1870s -- long before Americans turned spa into a verb -- travelers from around the world have been checking into stately Brenner's Park in the ur-spa city of Baden-Baden to relax and rejuvenate. While you could be very comfortable just staying in the hotel, the real point of a visit is taking part in the spa. And spa-ing is done a bit differently here: Forget about an herb wrap and starvation. Instead, the spa experience is all about indulgence: a wonderful meal, fine wine, a lovely room, a stroll through the park and a night at the casino.

The Rooms

Guest rooms feel light and airy; ceilings are high and balconies look out over the 2.5-acre park and its graceful, well-groomed pathways. The interior is pretty, but this isn't Berlin -- you won't find anything remotely cutting-edge or hip. Rather, rooms are decked out in traditional style, with flowery drapes and wallpapers in tones of ivory, pink and green, crystal chandeliers, antique commodes and writing desks. Suites get you more space and more dramatic decor, but unfortunately come with the same unattractive carpeting. The Presidential Suite -- with two terraces, a separate elevator and bullet-proof windows -- is perfect for visiting heads of state or Russian gangsters.

The Service

The 220 employees average 15 years each on the job, guaranteeing guests familiarity, continuity and German efficiency. While the staff is all about experience, the house motto is "ein Grandhotel wird junger" ("a grand hotel becomes younger"): So if you ask for help with your Palm Pilot or PowerPoint presentation, consider it done.

The Highlights

The spa is the focus here. Visit the Bulgari Care Parlour and the Kanebo Harmonising Beauty Spa after a massage in a private spa suite and a dip in the Roman-style indoor pool. Or get the full-blown Medical Spa Program, which includes a health checkup, specialist medical care, aesthetic dentistry, dermatology and nutrition coaching. Still, don't feel guilty about going easy on spa activities -- remember, this is an indulgent spa. Hit the town's new Racecourse and take advantage of the hotel's private Brenner's Lounge. Play a round of golf (with reduced green fees) at the Baden-Baden Golf Club, and take a stroll through the park into town. Finish off the day in the Michelin-starred Park Restaurant -- where chef Andreas Krolik prepares classics like venison and foie gras. Yes, this is how the Europeans spa.

-- Kathleen Beckett

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