Cologne
Germany


The Experience

Sometimes you're better off sticking to the classics -- especially in Europe. Cologne's awe-inspiring Gothic Dom cathedral is an obvious example. And directly opposite the cathedral lies another case in point, the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. This 140-year-old landmark hotel harks back to another era, featuring Louis XIV-style furniture, a crisply attired staff and a classical French dining room. The Ernst isn't modern or hip, but that's exactly what returning guests like about it.

The Rooms

When the hotel decided to renovate in the mid-‘80s, it wisely hired Count Siegwart Pilati to handle the room decorations. Think muted aristocracy: yellow silk drapes, high ceilings, marble bathrooms, chandeliers. And when you're paying five-star rates, the perks are appreciated, especially free drinks in the minibar. If you want a queen-size bed, make sure to ask for one when booking, as many of the larger beds are simply twins pushed together. And upgrading to a suite is worth it, if only for the amazing views of the Dom.

The Service

Starched formality is the general theme here. This hotel operation works like a well-wound Swiss watch: Porters escort guests to the nearby train station, fresh fruit materializes at all hours and concierge requests are fulfilled promptly. The staff handles all situations with reserve and aplomb. The arrival of a visiting head of state usually instigates a flurry of activity in the lobby, but after the motorcade has left, calm descends once again.

The Highlights

The Ernst houses two intimate, suitably expensive restaurants: the renowned Hansa Stube (which recently garnered 16 Gault Millau points) and the Asian fusion restaurant Taku, the hotel's only nod to contemporary trends. The dishes at the Hansa Stube may actually be too refined -- desserts look more like a child's art project than something you'd want to eat. Taku is the better choice; it's far more lively and relaxing. Finish off the day there with a Thai duck salad and green tea mousse. At least at this restaurant, it's worth taking a chance on a trend.

-- Gisella Williams

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