Adare, County Limerick
Ireland


The Experience

On the banks of the River Maigue, this American-owned imposing Tudor Gothic mansion was home for the earls of Dunraven; the atmosphere still feels familial, albeit a family long on history and wealth. The iconic property maintains the 19th century's fascination with the medieval, with stone arches, heavy wood and decorated ceilings; the centerpiece is the "Minstrels Gallery," a 132-feet-long room (Ireland's second largest). Outside, the 840 acres provide plenty of distraction, especially in the beautiful huge gardens and the little namesake village nearby, one of Ireland's most picturesque. Sights like the Ring of Kerry and the Cliffs of Moher are close enough for day trips.

The Rooms

The five Dunraven staterooms in the main building are the ones to snag, with high ceilings, super-king-size beds, individually carved fireplaces, huge marble bathrooms and large bay windows that let in lots of light. Once you see the staterooms, the other categories will seem almost second-class -- though all of them have heavy drapery, thick carpets and plenty of antiques. Even the standard rooms have marble bathrooms, but go for an upgrade. Two- to four-bedroom garden townhouses, with kitchens and washer/dryers, are more convenient for families, but all that modernity misses the point of Adare.

The Service

The hotel has the hospitality the country has become famous for. John, the concierge, is extremely helpful and knowledgeable. The only place where service is less warm is in the restaurant, where it seems like the staff thinks they are being grand but come across as supercilious.

The Highlights

This property is a golfer's paradise, and many guests are here purely for the Robert Trent Jones-designed course, one of the country's most famous. But those in search of other outdoor activities will find plenty, from excellent salmon fishing to clay-pigeon shooting, horseback riding and fox hunting. Guests looking for less rigorous activity can retire to the full-service spa and the heated indoor swimming pool with its glass and wood ceiling. But this is Ireland, land of hills and gardens, so take a stroll on the grounds; the earls placed the formal design among rolling parkland so that the two would showcase a more manicured aesthetic within quintessential Irish countryside. You'll feel like all of Ireland is laid out before you.

-- Ondine Cohane

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