Otago
New Zealand


The Experience

When Tom Tusher, the former CEO of Levi Strauss, and his wife, Pauline, bought this piece of secluded wilderness several decades ago, the last thing they intended was to build a hotel. But as their plans became more ambitious, they decided to open it to outside guests -- a lucky stroke for the rest of us. This is where to come for adventure: hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, skiing, fishing -- they're all just moments away. Granted, the stone-and-timber lodge, with its 30-feet-high Great Room, looks like it belongs more in the Rocky Mountains than the Southern Alps (as New Zealand's South Island mountains are known), but it's such a beauty that no one's going to quibble about local design. Plus, the surrounding scenery (the location for the Lord of the Rings saga) is so staggering in its jagged-mountain and glassy-lake drama that you're grateful for the tall windows to take it all in.

The Rooms

The term "wide-open spaces" could also apply to the interiors, where the five smallest rooms, the lodge rooms, are 580 square feet, with balconies for lounging and admiring the view of Lake Wakatipu and the mountains. Decor is plush but simple: natural-fiber rugs and cushy chairs in neutral colors, with the odd basket or wood table for accent. Lodge and Chalet suites go up to 700 square feet; though that's not a big jump in size, two features make it worth the upgrade: gorgeous stone fireplaces and a sprawling 400-feet terrace to take in the view.

The Service

The staff here is very low-key and friendly, but don't mistake that for laissez-faire; if you need a helicopter the next morning for sightseeing or heli-fishing, or in a different season, a private guide for skiing or heli-skiing, they can arrange it.

The Highlights

The food here fits in with the general mise-en-scène -- sophisticated but casual, refined without calling too much attention to itself. Perfectly grilled fish or venison in a red wine sauce might turn up on the menu served at individual tables (unlike the communal dining experience common at many New Zealand lodges) in the lakeview dining room. There's also a small spa for after-activity massages and a pool, both with large windows or open to the air for outdoor views. There's a terrace overlooking the lake for cocktails or, if the weather turns chilly, an indoor lounge with a great roaring fireplace, a perfect place to wind down after a rugged day.

-- Laurie Werner

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